How to preserve a watch over time: The complete guide to horological maintenance
A watch is much more than a mere measuring instrument. It is an object of art, a marvel of micromechanics, and often, a precious heirloom one wishes to pass down to the next generation. But how do you preserve a watch over time and ensure it spans decades with the same precision as on its first day?
Contrary to popular belief, a timepiece, even when crafted from the most robust materials like sapphire crystal or stainless steel, requires continuous and careful attention. Whether it features a highly reliable quartz movement or a meticulously assembled mechanical calibre, a few simple gestures and an appropriate maintenance routine are essential.
Daily best practices to preserve your watch
The first secret to a watch's longevity lies in the habits of its wearer. Everyday life is full of minor hazards for both the micromechanics and the aesthetics of your timepiece.
The importance of regular cleaning
Perspiration, skin acidity, dust, and cosmetic residues can tarnish the case's metal and accelerate the premature wear of the seals. Regular cleaning is therefore essential to maintain its original lustre.

Regular maintenance with a soft cloth is essential to preserve the lustre and longevity of your timepiece.
For water-resistant watches fitted with a steel or silicone strap, a gentle brushing with an extremely soft-bristled brush, lukewarm water, and a touch of mild soap works wonders. Do not forget to rinse thoroughly with clear water and dry with a soft microfibre cloth. On the other hand, if your watch is dressed in a leather strap, you must keep it strictly away from water to prevent the natural material from warping, discolouring, or cracking.
Protecting your watch from magnetic fields
This is one of the worst invisible enemies of modern mechanical horology. Magnets found in our everyday environment (smartphones, tablets, magnetic handbag clasps, induction hobs, or audio speakers) can magnetise the watch's balance spring.
A magnetised watch will suddenly begin to run significantly fast or slow, as its balance spring coils stick together. To preserve a watch over time with optimal precision, make it a habit never to place it directly on your electronic devices or in the immediate vicinity of powerful magnets on your desk or bedside table.
Mechanical maintenance: The heart of your timepiece
The heart of your watch needs energy to function correctly, but this energy must be transmitted with respect for its mechanical architecture.
Properly winding your automatic watch
If you own an automatic watch, its rotor winds it naturally through the simple movements of your wrist. However, if you alternate between several watches or wear it infrequently, it will eventually stop after 36 to 72 hours, depending on its power reserve. To restart it, manual winding is necessary, but it must be executed with delicacy.
Always remove the watch from your wrist before winding it to avoid exerting lateral pressure on the winding stem, which could damage it. Then, turn the crown clockwise for about twenty rotations to restart the mechanism. Never force it and do not wind it to the absolute limit, even though modern automatic movements often feature a clutch system to prevent overwinding.
The utility of watch winders
For enthusiasts who frequently alternate between several models, automatic winding boxes (also known as "watch winders") are excellent allies. These luxurious cases simulate the natural movements of the wrist at regular intervals and keep the watch in constant motion.

Watch winders simulate wrist movement to keep your automatic watches in perfect working order.
This not only ensures the exact time and date are kept up to date, but also prevents the internal oils from coagulating if the watch remains stationary for too many months. It is a highly recommended solution for timepieces featuring complications that are difficult to adjust.
Water resistance and thermal shocks: Anticipating the risks
External elements, particularly water and temperature, require constant vigilance to preserve a watch over time.
Understanding and checking water resistance
A watch's water resistance is never permanent. It is guaranteed by minuscule synthetic rubber seals which, over time, and with exposure to salt, chlorine, or the sun, can dry out, deteriorate, and lose their flexibility.
If you regularly swim with your timepiece, an annual water resistance check by an artisan watchmaker is highly recommended before the summer holidays. Always keep in mind that a watch water-resistant to 3 ATM only withstands accidental splashes (washing hands, rain), whereas a water resistance of 20 ATM or more is designed for genuine diving. An absolute golden rule: never operate the pushers or the crown when the watch is submerged or still wet.
Avoiding thermal shocks
Sudden temperature variations are devastating. Moving from full sun exposure on a summer beach to very cold water can cause condensation to appear under the watch glass. Similarly, saunas, hammams, or very hot showers are strictly prohibited: extreme heat expands metallic materials unevenly and prematurely deteriorates the waterproof seals, leaving the door open to moisture.
Horological servicing: The assurance of a long life
Just as an automobile requires regular oil changes and checks, a mechanical watch needs periodic servicing by a competent professional.
It is generally advised to have your mechanical watch fully serviced every 3 to 5 years. During this complex operation, the watchmaker will completely dismantle the movement. Every minuscule component is cleaned, inspected under a microscope, and replaced if necessary. The parts are then meticulously lubricated with specific synthetic oils (viscous for slow-moving parts, fluid for fast-moving parts) to drastically reduce friction. Finally, the watch is reassembled, regulated on a timing machine, and its water resistance is rigorously tested.
|
Period |
Key Step |
Recommended Actions |
|
Year 0 |
The Acquisition |
Read the user manual. Perform the first complete manual winding and set the time. |
|
Year 1 |
Basic Maintenance |
Regularly clean the watch with a microfibre cloth. Avoid magnetic fields (smartphones, speakers) and violent shocks. |
|
Year 2 |
Verification |
Clean the watch regularly. Inspect the condition of the strap (leather or steel) and spring bars. |
|
Year 3 |
Intermediate Check |
Have the water resistance tested by a watchmaker, especially if the watch is exposed to water. Continue basic maintenance. |
|
Year 4 |
Monitoring |
Pay attention to accuracy (unusual fast or slow running) and power reserve, which may indicate that the oils are beginning to dry out. |
|
Year 5 |
The Complete Service |
Take the watch to a master watchmaker for a complete overhaul: disassembly, cleaning of components, lubrication, reassembly and regulation. |
Neglecting this crucial step under the pretext that the watch is still functioning is taking the certain risk that the internal oils will dry out. This will lead to metal-on-metal friction, irreversible wear of the components, and ultimately, much higher repair costs.
Conclusion
Knowing how to preserve a watch over time is the culmination of a genuine relationship of care and respect between the beautiful object and its owner. Whether it involves protecting it from ambient waves and magnetism, scrupulously ensuring its water resistance, or undertaking meticulous manual winding, every little attention counts. By adopting these few daily habits and respecting the necessary servicing cycles with your watchmaker, your timepiece will not only retain its absolute mechanical reliability but also all its aesthetic brilliance, ready to mark your greatest moments for many decades to come.
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