Complete guide to materials in watchmaking

In watchmaking, we use a multitude of materials, both for the components of the mechanism and for the external part, the case. Here we will discuss the materials used for the case and its components, such as the bezel or the case back. Indeed, just with this external part we find hundreds of different alloys, so let's look at these metals in detail.

The main categories of materials.

Steel

Steel is the most used material nowadays. The vast majority of steels used are hypoallergenic steels, that is to say they do not create any allergic reaction. Generally these steels are used in medicine, they are called "surgical". The most used alloys are 316L and 904L. The difference between these two steels is their hardness and their resistance to corrosion and chemicals. 904 is harder than 316 and is also shinier because it contains more chromium. In addition to being allergenic, they are stainless and therefore age very well over time.

At Gustave et Cie we use 316L stainless steel, it is a high quality steel with which we have exceptional feedback regarding finishes and machining. Finally, it supports the various PVD treatments very well.

Gold

Of course, pure 24k gold can be declined in various alloys, namely pink gold, white gold, red gold etc etc. Some brands create their own alloys, nothing very exceptional, it is most of the time marketing. We find honeygold at A lange & Shone, everose at Rolex and sedna gold at Omega etc.

Money

Silver was widely used in pocket watches and until the 1930s in some wristwatches. Nowadays it is used very little, if at all. It has been replaced by platinum and white gold or even stainless steel.

Titanium

Titanium is a material that is increasingly used in watchmaking; it is very hard and much lighter than steel. It is used in sports watches or on certain relatively fragile components such as horns or bezels.

Platinum

Platinum is a precious metal used for its grayish side which gives a very beautiful silvery reflection. It is precious and is used in high-end watchmaking pieces like gold. It is more appreciated than gray gold which needs rhodium plating, and is relatively little used, which adds a certain exclusivity, very well exploited by certain watch brands.

The bronze

Bronze is quite appreciated because its appearance changes over time, some say that bronze improves, others that it becomes much less elegant. Its change in appearance is due to the oxidation of the bronze. Its oxidation varies according to the user, we have no way of predicting the final color and this is very pleasing. It is not uncommon to see new watches deliberately oxidized to give them a "patina".

Carbon

Carbon is increasingly used because it is becoming “easier” to use than a few years ago. Carbon is firstly very aesthetic and dense, it is especially for its qualities. In addition, it is extremely light. It is commonly used in the automobile, in aviation and of course in watchmaking... It can be used absolutely everywhere with the exception of a few components such as cogs. Its use is seen as innovative and sporty.

Ceramics

Ceramic is used for its appearance and hardness. It gives a very beautiful effect and does not oxidize over time: it keeps its color. However, ceramic is very shock resistant and it is not uncommon for a ceramic box to break. This is due to its non-flexibility. Some brands offer ceramic that is more shock resistant on the same principle as gold alloys.

Conclusion

In conclusion, each material has its use and purpose. Gold is more suited to a jewelry watch and carbon to a sports watch. Steel, on the other hand, is multifunctional and useful, at least since the Patek Philippe Royal Oak released in 1972. It is very resistant and hypoallergenic, and has great qualities, hence its widespread use in the watchmaking world.

SOURCES:

• Titanium photo: https://fr.wiktionary.org/wiki/titane

• Bronze photo: https://imaterialise.helpjuice.com/materials/oxidized-brass-bronze