Metal bands can drastically change the look of a watch but do not necessarily adapt to your wrist all at once. Although these are mostly very simple maneuvers , you need to know them and not make mistakes to avoid any breakage !

This is why here, in this article, we will discuss the 3 main types of bands that you can come across. And finally, some bands for which your watchmaker or jeweler will be of great help to you!

The different types of bands

Each band is composed of a multitude of parts that are linked to each other with various methods and means. Not all links are adjustable, in fact only a few located on the end of the bands are . To recognize them, they are generally perforated on the side. The majority of them are quickly removed and require a small screwdriver, or a pick.

Quick adapter

Milanese mesh bands are almost always equipped with it, it is the quick adapter. It is also found on some metal bands with links. It has the advantage of being adjustable to the nearest millimeter and of perfectly fitting the wearer's wrist. To adjust it , you must open the band and slide a pick or screwdriver (actually any metal object) under the lever . Push it firmly upwards, and adjust it by sliding the block. Finally, don't forget to clip the lever again.

Repeat the process until you have the best result.

Barrette and Pin

This time we need a specific tool. Indeed for this type of band you will need a pick that can be provided to you at the same time as your watch.

If you have a tool with the same diameter as the pin , the first step is to remove the band from your watch so as not to scratch it. Then you can position yourself above the band and press this pin through the hole on the side of the band. Be careful to leave a space under the band so that this pin can go. In addition, you will generally have an arrow engraved on the back of the band on these adjustable links which tell you the direction in which you must push . Pay attention to put this rod back in the same way that you removed it (if the rod falls down, be sure to put it back from the bottom to the top and in the same direction: head up if this was the case).

Once removed, you simply have to repeat the process with one or more excess links and remove them when reassembling.

Please note, for comfort and aesthetic reasons, do not remove all the links on one side but proportionally around the buckle. If you have to remove 2 links, remove 1 on each end.

Then put your band back in by aligning the links and insert the rod again: it should go in easily at first and require a little force to put it in completely.

If you have a band of this type but you cannot get it to press down on the stem properly, it is a spring bar and must be removed with some type of band remover.

No screws

Here, it is exactly the same process as above except that it is not about pins but screws. So you will need a small screwdriver.

To remove a link, set the band aside once removed from the watch case, unscrew, remove the bar, remove a link by removing the bar from another link and reassemble the band.

If your bars unscrew too easily, put a little threadlocker glue on the screw thread before screwing the link!

Uncommon and difficult to adjust bands

Unlike the other bands mentioned above, some will not let you do it and will only want to be touched by the hands of a watchmaker or jeweler .

Here are some examples:

Gold or Steel bands without links:

Here, the only way to adjust them is to cut a piece of band and re-solder the buckle once done. Unfortunately, each intervention is definitive because adding a piece of cut link will not be very elegant.

Asymmetrical or unusual design bands:

Here, it is a question of the watchmaking puzzle, adjusting a link is hell, between the number and the direction of the parts, it is easy to get lost and spend several tens of minutes on a single link.

Rice grain watches:

The major risk is losing parts or once again putting them in the wrong way. The most common is losing the link tube , a small cylinder allowing the pin to reduce the wear of the link. If it is lost your link will not last long!

 

Don't take any risks

Of course, the key word in watchmaking is not to take any unnecessary risks and to ask your watchmaker to make an adjustment. In addition to making the local shopkeeper work, you will have a perfectly adjusted band that you can be sure will hold.

 

You have a metal band and want to adjust it ? No problem, just follow the different steps in our guide and you will have no problems. Be careful not to take any risks, not to scratch your watch and do not hesitate to ask your watchmaker for advice.
SOURCES:

• Vintage Piaget Watch: https://castafiore.fr/products/montre-vintage-piaget-en-or-jaune
• Grain de Riz Bracelet: https://www.esprit-nato.com/fr/bracelets-montre-acier-inox-massif/3615-bracelet-montre-vintage-perles-de-riz-dit-beads-of-rice-en-acier-inox-massif-18-19-20-21-22-24-mm.html